Hard not to love Suwon Hwaseong Fortress(수원화성) and Suwon Hwaseong Haenggung(수원화성행궁) in Suwon, South Korea

If you are a real travel lover, you can hardly miss the smile of the people who lives in those lovely destinations. Real beauty of some tourist attractions comes from not only the left relics of the past but the people live in those places, as I think . In the view of this aspect, maybe the Suwon Hwaseong(수원화성) and the Hwaseong Haenggung(화성행궁), located at the foot of Paldalsan mountain(팔달산) of Suwon(수원) next Seoul are the just very places where totally fit close to that meaning. This Fortress was designated to UNESCO World Heritage in 1997. They highly estimated it as a highlight of oriental fortress.

Paldalmun gate(south gate),national treasure

A scale model for Hwaseong fortress and temporary palace in front of  Janganmun Gate

It has excellent designs of the fortress architecture which shows the merits of both the eastern and the western construction methods. Also it had well equipped various components having scientific merits as an impregnable fort perfectly. Most parts of this wall and palace over the course of many years were severely destroyed and damaged, especially under the Japanese colonial period and Korean War(in 1950-1953). Now days all parts are well maintained through the best efforts for it and the whole circuit can be walked easily as a wonderful trail course taking around three hours.

The Great King Jeongjo(정조대왕)

King Jeongjo was one of two greatest monarchs, together with the Great King Sejong who invented Korean language, through all time of the Joseon Dynasty. The King Jeongjo who was the 22^nd King  ascended the throne at the age of 25 years old ,in the Late of Joseon dynasty,in 1776 when the United States got the independence. There is no objection to pick the one of the most outstanding achievements must be the construction of Suwon Hwaseong fortress and the city as an ideal city putting in his dream.

The portrait of King Jeongjo
I thought he is very handsome and majestic when I saw his portrait at the shrine Woonhangak(운한각) in the Hwaryeongjeon(화령전). What a very high spirits he was! The simplicity of this shrine non-colored wooden building despite of being palace seems like to show his self-confidence and non-formality.

The Woonhangak,  a shrine housing the portrait of King Jeongjo

 In fact, it was not easy for him to be a king because his father, Crown Prince Sado, was killed in the wooden rice chest by his own father King Yeongjo(21^st King) on the charge of conspiracy unfairly. And thus, It was natural that there were many checks several times by the political party which took part in his father’s death and scared revenge of his little son (King Jeongjo, the little son, was just eleven years old and even begged to his grandfather for his father’s live). There was even an assassination plot against him. His greatness is merely in the forgiveness to them only. Through his reign, he opened the offices to the young talented persons according to their ability regardless of their humble origins or factions. He was the real monarch who loved the people deeply and put his policies into practice strongly in the part of national security, defense, economy and commerce.

The Suwon Hwaseong Fortress(수원화성)

It had been weighed on King Jeongjo’s mind at all time that his father’s tomb had been in a state of total neglect for long time. Finally, he relocated it at Hwasan mountain, named it as Hyeollyungwon (renamed into Yungneung;융릉) and visited the royal tomb 13 times. According to the official and non-official records, he missed his father with weeping eyes and hearts, was afflicted at the fact that his grandfather chose him instead of his father as the next king, as a result to bring in his father’s death. And then Fortress and palace had been begun to build in Jan 1794 and completed in Sep 1796 (surprisingly within three years less) next the father’s tomb.

The Hwaseomun gate(화서문, west gate)

Fort is the wall surrounding the center of Suwon city, stretching to 5.4kms long in length and reaching up from four to six meters (13-20 ft) high in tall, and Haenggung is the temporary palace within the walls of Hwaseong Fortress to house for King Jeongjo when visited and paid his respected at his father’s tomb. As he paid correct wage to workers according the principle of market economy, compared with the past that government work had been carried out by corvee labour, the construction period was able to be short to 33 months from 10 years being expected. Of course, new various creative tools such as crane (Nongno, Geojunggi) used for construction.

Nongno ; a narrow kind of crane in the front of Suwon Hwaseong Museum

Geojunggi ; a kind of crane in front of Suwon Hwaseong Museum
He granted tablet to worker in summer and woolly hat and padded clothes in winter during construction period. It was big mercy when looked back the social aspect at the time. The Hwaseong Seongyeok Uigwe(화성성역의궤), the 10 volumes for records of Hwaseong Fortress construction, shows another highlight of archival culture in detail, well organized records and the king's rational thought..

HwaseongSeongyeokUigwe(화성성역의궤)  in the Suwon Hwaseong Museum

I was very surprised at the beauty of this fortress and proud of it as walking along the wall. It was so beautiful that it was unbelievable for me that it was a kind of military facilities. The wall has four national treasures, four main gates on each direction, gun towers, observation towers, pavilions, sentry posts, turrets, crossbow platforms, command posts, beacon tower, secret gates and so on.

The Banghwasuryujeong (방화수류정) ; second battle command post 

The pond viewed from The Banghwasuryujeong( above point)

The Bongdon(봉돈 ; beacon tower) It is located intentionally in direct line with palace
 so that the king could see the signals

The Hwaseong Haenggung(화성행궁) temporary palace and the New city(Suwon) surrounded by the fortress

Haenggung is the temporary palace within the Hwaseong fortress. Originally this was a small local  government office till relocation of Crown Prince Sado tomb. After relocating the tomb, this was expanded up to 600 components scale and became the largest temporary palace in Joseon Dynasty. It had approximately rectangular layout like as primary palace in Seoul, situated at the eastern foot of Paldalsan mountain(팔달산).

Sinpungnu (신풍루) ; the main gate of Hwaseong Haenggung

The 60^th birthday party of King Jeongjo’s mother (Princess Hyegyeong Hong), national exams, feast for the senior citizens were held in this palace during the huge royal tomb visitation of eight days in 1795. To be sad most part of this palace was destroyed under Japanese colonial period and rebuilt again reopen in 2003. Some part of it still has been restored. The painting of the rear component of it described the big parade in 1795 (Also we could find out in the Cheonggye stream(청계천) wall in Seoul).

The palanquin carrying Hyegyeonggung Hong(mother of King Jeongjo)

The horse carrying King Jeongjo
In accordance with conventions, the King is not actually depicted in the painting
but has been left blank

6000 peoples and 1400 horses were mobilized in this big visitation to a tomb according to the official record. It was painted by the professional artists of an administrative office. Optimistic and funny expression shown in it seems like to reflect of liberal social mood in his era. This palace and inner area of wall were composed on the vast flatland and had defensive military function as well as commercial roles in practical side. He designed the city as a new multipurpose experimental revolution one for promoting of agriculture and commerce.

The square in front of palace 

This was a major transportation hub reaching three local provinces. He took many new attempts when composed this city. For example, he let the flooded stream changed into reservoir and supplied the water to the near national farmland. Many floating people and poor military families engaged in the agriculture and shared the profit on a fifty-fifty basis between government and actual peasant. So he could enough provide the expenses of his royal military troop and maintenance finance of fortress and palace with this profit. He lent money to the local merchants without interest for three years for promoting the business. Big traditional markets composed at that time at the right side of Paldalmun gate(팔달문) are continues even now. These markets situated on the both side of Suwoncheon stream(수원천) are so enormous. At a short time, I was about to made an impulse buy by the glittering goods what tempted me. Here was not just the passing by city when he visited his father’s royal tomb but the starting spot of great turning point to carry out his ideal. He wanted to expand to many other cities at the same way after succeeding this modeling city. He wanted to stay with his mother at this city after succeeding to a throne to his sun (23^rd King Sunjo).

However it did not come true sadly because he died suddenly in 1800 at the age of just 49 years old by disease. Many planned projects would not be able to go ahead anymore. Many historians used to say that if he lived 10 years longer at least, Korea might be much better than as it is.      

The Honghwamun gate and The Banghwasuryujeong
 I can’t help loving this city. I had been the program of ‘Walking in the moonlight at Suwon Hwaseong Haenggung’. It will be another romantic experience at night for me to the past. I’ll post about it soon. 

Tip ; You need three hours at least to take a walk around just the fortress. It means the more times should be taken to see the palace also. Don’t hurry. Take your time slowly in here, please!!!. And prepare some drinks, wear comfortable shoes and something to shield the strong sunshine in case of hot day. Check the performance schedules carefully through their web site because they have regular/irregular one.
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Changdeokgung palace complex in Seoul,Korea, UNESCO World cultural Heritage

“My round of Joseon dynasty shall be different from the previous kings.”

The kings who eagerly dreamed a good and wise king than as before. The place where left their passion and anguish, I visited just the Changdeokgung palace complex.

The Changdeokgung(창덕궁), literally ‘prospering virtue palace’, is the palace of Joseon Dynasty which is the most beautiful, longest, being loved one to the kings and well preserved place at present time. Changdeokgung was designated on UNESCO World Heritage in 1997 with an outstanding exceptional example of Far Eastern palace architecture and design, blending harmoniously with the surrounding landscape. With this historical and beautiful value, the first ladies of G20 visited this palace in Nov2010 during G20 Summits period.

The history of Changdeokgung palace and location

This was built as a secondary palace in 1405 by the order of King Taejong, 3^rd king of Joseon dynasty. It is located at the foot of Ungbong Peak of mountain Bugaksan in Seoul. It is named also ‘East Palace’ along with Chaggyeonggung because it is situated in the east side of Gyeongbok palace, the primary palace. Each complex is placed in harmony with the topography without regular system as contrast with the Gyeongbok palace which is overawed and authoritative by standing the line and symmetrical placement in flatland. Korea is mountainous country. As this reason, the kings might be more familiar than the flat main palace. All palace in Hanyang( today’s Seoul) was destroyed by the Japanese invasion (1592-1598). As talking of inauspicious side in Gyeongbok palace, Changdeok palace reconstructed and took over as a new royal court by the King Gwanghaegun until Gyeongbok palace rebuilt in 1865 and was used through several process of destroy and reconstruction till the end of dynasty( almost 500 years).

The distinct feature of Changdeonggung palace complex and Secret garden

Palace, up to 50000 square meters, is divided into front outer yards consisted of the governmental offices, royal private residential area and inner yards of the rear garden (secret garden).This dynasty was established by the base of Confucian ideology. The principle of it was “Humble and Simple”. It was also applied when the palace complex was constructed. However they did not give up their attempt to make it graceful and elegant instead of being glossy. Especially, garden area (rear garden, secret garden), well composed by pavilions, ponds, trees, oddly shaped stones and rocks shows outstanding view especially boast characteristic and beautiful harmony with nature. This has the feature of untypical aesthetic value of beauty.  People thought Gyeongbok palace as the inauspicious site in some side although it was the primary palace according to Fengshui principle, Chinese geomantic principles, many kings preferred to stay new Changdeok palace (창덕궁) from the beginning period of dynasty.

The vicinity of Donhwamun Gate(돈화문)

This is the oldest main palace gate, built in 1412 and reconstructed during the King Gwanghaegun period(in 1608), and is two stories building where bell and bass drum were installed for alarming of the time(not inside at present time). This was exclusive gate for the king when he went for the Jongmyo shrine where the royal family’s ancestral tablets were placed and ancestral rites were performed regularly during the Joseon dynasty. The gatekeepers’ quarter was changed into the stone wall at now. Besides, a new road was opened between palace and Jongmyo shrine in Japanese occupation period. So it is no more accessible as free as like the past, is true to get an very stuffy impression.

The Injeongmoon gate and yard(인정문)

captured by book Changdeokgung written Jongdeok Choi

After passing by the oldest Geumcheongyo stone bridge and one gate again, I reached at Injeongmoon gate. In front of this gate, in general, the coronation of a king was held concisely on 6^th day of the death of previous king because the throne couldn't leave it empty for long time after death of former king. For a moment, I visualized the ideal and passion of new king in my mind. This yard has the trapezoidal type instead of typical rectangular one. Maybe this was caused by the purpose of avoiding the mountain terrain leading to the Jongmyo shrine.

The Injeongjeonjeon Hall and vicinity(인정전)

This is the national treasure and main hall of palace. Official grand ceremonies like as audiences with ministers, reception of foreign envoys and so on were held. The external appearance looks like two stories building, but the inside is one story building having the glossy interior and high ceiling.

At the front, there were the king’s seat and the folding screen on the back of the chair which means the world of ruling by the king(painted the sun, moon, five peaks and two fast-flowing cascades usually shown in the historic drama in television). Present appearance was reconstructed in 1804 after several destroy and rebuilt. In 1900’, and thus it shows various  combined cultural elements by adopting the Western culture( eg, the light, curtain and gloss window was equipped and the clay stone floor was changed into wood).

The guardians of palace on the eaves (Japsang 잡상),
Korean traditional decorative coloring on wood ( Dancheong 단청)
Clay dolls on the eaves of tiled roof, Japsang (잡상,the meaning is several shape) which they are from the characters of Chinese novel HsiYuChi(journey to the West), are the guardians protecting the people from devil. Dancheong(단청), Korean traditional decorative coloring on wood building and artifacts, using only five colors( each color means; blue-east white-west  red-south  black-north  yellow-center), works not only as decoration role but also for practical purposes such as to protect building surfaces against temperature or insects and make the crudeness of materials less conspicuous.

left; Deumeu(드므)
 right;rank stones for officials and thin-layered stone plates on the floor

Deumeu(드므), the vessel keeping for firefighting water, has the symbolic superstitious meaning that fire devil surprised at his reflection image in the water and ran away. Officials stood in line according to their rank on the back side of the stone. The higher they are, the closer they are to the king. The civil official stood on the east side, the military one did on the west side. Thin layered stone plates being cut along the grain into 10~20-cm-thick slice on the front yard of this building makes this hall more prominent architecture. This type of stone prevented to slip down by the rain and to dazzle by the strong sunlight. Civil service literary examinations were held in this yard. Through the resurface the yard, now a day the stone was replaced with flat type stones, it diminished the scent of the past regretfully.

Huijeongdang Hall and Daejojeon Hall for the royal family residential court

Huijeongdang Hall(휘정당)

This was used for the king’s chamber at first, used for council in the later. This was rebuilt in 1920 by using the materials of the Gangnyeongjeon of Gyeongbok palace after destroyed by the fire in 1917. At that time, they adopted the style of Chinese in Beijing and Western style in many part of this building.

The flower steps of Daejojeon rear yard(대조전)

This is the official residence of the queen. Also many kings were born and died in here. The flower steps, in general, for the space of women, composed to plant flowers or trees on the sloping hill. (in Daejojeon rear yard)

The buildings for the rising sun; for the little crown prince

Heuiwooru(희우루) on the opposite site of secret garden ticketing office

Heuiwooro was the lecture room for the little prince and changed the purpose into the space of traditional doctor for caring the king later.

The Nakseonjae hall and vicinity, the nest of the young King Heonjong for his lover

Nakseonjae(낙선재)
These buildings, Nakseonjae(낙선재), Seokbokheon and Sugangjae, were built in 1847 for the royal concubine in King Heonjong reign. After his first queen died, he exceptionally attended the selection site for coming new queen. But his grandmother chose another girl instead of the girl who was fixed in his mind on. As the no prince was born in three years, he finally took the girl as the royal concubine. This vicinity was composed of humble, simple and in neat like the houses of the Joseon literati, but the hidden refine in places made me feel another aesthetic. The king spent the times with her at his rest time in Nakseonjae. Seokbokheon is the residential house for her on the next door. However, their dramatic love story did not last so long (just for three years only) because the king died of disease at the age of 22. She lived until 76 years old. Love like as the short spring time!

 the outside view sitting on the floor

ice pattern under the floor

The small wall for firefighting has the pattern of ice under the floor. 

The Secret Garden(비원), the most attractive destination of this palace

Huwon (rear garden),Biwon (secret garden) Forbidden garden( due to restriction area by the king) North garden (located on the north site). It has been named so many names as before. Present name ‘Secret garden’ was derived from the office name to maintain this garden in Japanese occupation period. However the name used through long period was the ‘Huwon’. They planted the flowers and broad-leaved trees, up to 26000 specimens of 100 indigenous trees, made many beautiful pavilions, lotus ponds and other architectures along the topography in each valley harmoniously. This was accessed from both Changdeokgung and Changgyeonggung palace because there was no barrier between them in the past till Japanese occupation period (1910-1945). This is the palace garden where royal family members strolled and meditated in private. This was used also for venue for banquets, military drill, archery range and so on.

The ideal and vision of King Jeongjo, Buyongjeong, Pond and Juhamnu Pavilion

Buyongji pond(부용지)

In the pond, small islet means round sky and square means land . Buyongjeong(부용정),re-opened in 2012, is the architectural highlight of the Korean traditional pavilion.

Buyongjeong(부용정)

The cross-shape of the pavilion symbolizes the full blooming lotus and the two stone legs on the front part seem like man submerges his leg to the pond. The King Jeongjo rebuilt this one and changed it into present name. He invited high-ranking officials, made fishing, had their legs submerged on the pond, floated the boat and made poems. Person who did not compose poem in time dropped this small islet as a penalty for a short time. His father was killed in the rice chest by his grandfather King Yeongjo when he was a child. He wanted to communicate with all his heart to his officials and dreamed the new era of Joseon dynasty.

front; Eosumun(어수문) rear; Juhamnu(주합루)

The Juhamnu(주합루) of 2 story building located on the opposite site, is the site where preserved and published the books ( on 1^st floor) and discussed the knowledge and politics with young talented people(on 2^nd floor). The sign board of this entrance(Eosumun) contains his hope that officials show their ability in full in front of king as like fish meets the water. The era without political strife, he was a real good and wise king left many great brilliant achievement.

The Aeryeonji Pond 

Aeryongji pond(애련정)

In summer, this pond was filled with lotus flowers. It blossoms beautiful flower in the dirty soil pond. It symbols the men of virtue.

The Jondeokjeong Pavilion and vicinity

Seungjaejeong(승재정) from the Jondeokjeong(존덕정)

This was the pond of gourd-shaped bottle at first and reduced to this size resembling the Korean peninsula map shape. Along the line of this pond each pavilion boasts its beauty of itself.

Jondeokjeong(존덕정)

blue and yellow dragon ceiling and poem tablet in the right

The hexagonal pavilion of the double-layered roof and ceiling in blue and yellow dragon and  poem tablet of King Jeongjo. “ Small streams may shine under the moonlight, but there is only one moon”

The Ongnyucheon Stream and vicinity (Jade Stream)

Cheongui pavilion(청의정)

Cheongui pavilion is the place of rice seedling by the king and made the roof from straw cultivated in this field. Roof made from straw instead of heavy tiled roof is very impressive and skinny pillar and rafter looks very light like as slim girl.

The Yeongyeongdang Hall

This residential area having 120 rooms was built for the Jinjakrye ceremony of King Sunjo by Crown Prince Hyomyeong in 1828 and rebuilt in 1865. It has the style of household of the gentry despite of location in the palace area. King Sunjo lived here for a short year when he substituted his thrown into his crown prince. This has double zone for King’s quarter(Sarangchae사랑채 such as living room) and Queen’s quarter(Anchae안채 such as inner private room).

King's quart(사랑채)

Queen's quarter(안채)

Seonhyangjae(선향재) is the study having Chinese style side wall and Western style blind

Nongsujeong pavilion(농수정)

I love this palace which endures so long hard times.

Chinese Juniper tree 750 years old

Wonderful shot !!!
Those girls wearing Hanbok(Traditional dress of Korea)

Get the detail from their official web site. click here !!!