Getting me to think the Past, Present and the Future ...Abai Village, Sokcho city(속초시) travel in South Korea

The temperature was dropping sharply day by day just like to rush into the winter. The Sokcho city, located in the far northeast of Korea, was a small town at first but  it became a big city according to migration of lots of refugees population from North Korean after the Korean war(1950-1953).  This city is a gateway to nearby Seoraksan national park(설악산 국립공원)  and is one of the biggest harbor city in the amount of fishery products. And thus many people used to visit not only for their summer holidays but also good reputation of sea products all year round.

 At this time, I skipped over Seoraksan mountai (설악산)because we already went there last summer and I planned to go to the ‘Abai Village’(아바이마을; fathers’ village; dialect of Hamgyeongdo region in North Korea). This is a small village located in Cheongho-dong street in Sokcho(속초) city.  It has the shape of a stripe land area between Cheongcho Lake and the East sea. This village was originally set up as an area to house North Korea refugees those who await to return their hometown in North Korea. Despite of ending Korean war, the country divided into two bodies( South Korea and North Korea) and they could not go back to their hometown never again. So they had to settle down somewhere in south area. After all, large percentage of the refugees lived further in here and named it as Abai village after the deriving of  being of elderly age, “uncle” or “aged male person”. It looked as just small village to the eye but it had sad story about our country.

Here was the ordinary village until that had been famous as filmed sites for K-drama ‘Autumn in My Heart’(Gaeul Donghwa;가을동화) in November,2000 which is romantic television drama reaching a peak viewership of 46.1% in Korea and also was aired on  television in many Asian countries after that.

Drama KBS ' Autumn in My Heart'

The Gat bae(갯배)

The Gaetbae(갯배)  Boat, a floating raft of tires and wood, being operated by people pulling on rope moving the boat across a waterway, served for a long time as the main way, to get from the little island to downtown, just 50 meters distance, instead of going by a round-about way up to 5 kilometer until the recent completion of a bridge made for driving. Especially, the scene that the hero of drama was searching for heroine was so aching in ones heart to viewer that many people want to ride on this boat as being like hero. Yes, this has been known as famous place by drama. But I would like to add some more stories being forgotten as times go by.

‘Abai village’(아바이마을), This is the village having heart broken story. This is the just place where people from North Korea has lived since the date of ceasefire the war(1950-1953) during over 60 years, is still waiting to go back to their hometown with hoping to see their family being left in. In 1952, the code name was ‘Christmas Cargo’. During the Korean War, UN coalition forces (especially US army) and Korean militaries were isolated in Heungnam area of North Korea due to massive influx of Chinese military force supporting the North Korea. The weather was so cold about -30 to -40 centigrade and the status was very urgent. So militaries took a decision of withdrawal troops by the route of the sea. Under way of preparing the evacuation, it happened that refugees who had lived in those areas and nearby areas gathered into Heungnam port to take the boat going to South Korea. Did you ever see these photos?

capture by 두산백과  Meredith Victory called as 'Ship of Miracle'

capture by 두산백과  refugees from North Korea in above ship up to 14000 peron

capture by 두산백과 burning Heungnam port

Captain Leonard Larue, was 35 years old only at that time, said “God’s own hand was at the helm of my little ship.” They safely arrived at Geojedo island near by Busan city on the morning of Christmas day in 1952 after long hard voyage in over 13 hours. After ceasefire, refugees could not go to the hometown, so they settled down in the empty sandy plain by the sea in Sokcho city as the nearest town to approach to go their hometown, had been waiting for the unification of both Korea, The South and The North.

Sokcho city was a small city before. As the inflow of these refugees, the population was increased, the city had become a big city in Gangwondo province, these displaced person gained commercial supremacy of Jungang-market by making market in this zone filled with reeds when they arrived here at first. In this respect, it is not too much to say that Sokcho is the city made by the displaced person. As the years rolled by, the first generation of internally displaced person passed away about in the 50 percentage and the second generation has taken over their business.

abai sundae

Abai Sundae(아바이순대) that is steamed squid stuffed with a mixture of noodles, tofu, vegetables and squids is the famous unique food in this village, being created by old refugees generation from North Korea. Original one was made of the gut of a big animal, tripe, but they replaced it by using squid because it was not easy to get the tripe under lacking of everything after war. Hamheung Naengmyeon(함흥냉면) is also famous food (cold buckwheat noodle).

Another recommendable cuisine in here is as follow.The most favorite food is maybe Manseok dak gangjeong(만석닭강정), the stir-fried chicken formed into small balls and coated in a sweet and spicy source. This is so famous and well known to the people, they can enjoy even other area using quick delivery system. Don’t miss to taste this fried chicken. I could easily see the persons who are holding these boxes. It is very famous and delicious. Not so far from downtown, there is a natural spa area; Cheoksan hot spring district(척산온천지구), there are available for proper accommodations to the tourists also. This is an extraordinary alkaline thermal spring, looks like slightly blue radiance, is good for skin diseases, eye diseases, stomach disorders, neuralgia, blood circulation and relaxing ones’ fatigue, they say.  Next time, wish to visit this hot spring. It was raining when I awoke on the next day. There was Seoraksan mountain in the rain at a long distance.

The Seoraksan mt. in the rain

Sokcho city is one of the most tourist attractions being loved by Koreans and foreigner with its spectacular sceneries of mountain and sea all the year round. This is not disappointed with you. *** How to get there**

Take the inter-city bus from Dong-Seoul bus terminal in Seoul to Sokcho. It takes 2 hrs 50 mins only.  

The Korean’s Bucket List. Mountain, sea and my mind became one!!! Naksan Provincial Park (낙산 도립공원) in Gangwondo province

Whenever I visited, I always had a feeling something new. The place was Naksansa temple(낙산사), Hongreonam hermitage(홍련암), Uisangdae(의상대) in Yangyang(양양), Gangwondo, South Korea

The Hongreonam hermitage(홍련암)

It seemed like that winds took a rest in here, clouds softly floated around and waves sang a song having in many ways of feeling. What all I had done in their was to become one with the nature. As usual as just like nature itself. In spring, summer, fall and in winter, it always shows indescribable beauty and the comforts. Absolutely  this is one of the bucket lists must to go to the Korean. When I grew up, I visited here so many times for the educational experiences in elementary school, the summer vacation and for the rest times together with family. Maybe many Koreans had same experience as me

.This is located on the slopes of Naksan mountain (낙산) midway between Sokcho-city(속초 )and Yangyang-gun(양양) and mid-spot between Seorak beach and Naksan beach also in the East coast of South Korea. Naksan means the place where the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy(Gwanseum bosal;관세음보살) stay. The goddess of mercy is so familiar with the human that she help them comfortable and happy according to the record of Buddhism.

Naksansa temple(낙산사) was built in AD 671 by great master Uisang-daesa who was a priest of high virtue and studied in China of ancient Dang kingdom and also famous master in the China at that time. After return from China and arrived at here, he got treasures of Buddhist prayer beads made of crystal and magic dazzling pearl. And he received a divine revelation about the site of temple after the praying of 27 days. Through the long time this temple had been several procedures of reconstruction and expanding due to severe damage by fire, foreign invasions and the Korean war(1950-1953). Regretfully, the biggest damage of this temple recently that almost parts of one and treasures being destroyed was done by the fire in the spring of 2005. This one was restored through historical research and reopened to the public in 2007 by the efforts and donations of all across the nations’ Buddhists. Fortunately, Hongreonam hermitage, Uisangdae pavilion and Haesugwaneumsang statue did avoid the misfortune of the big fire in 2005.

The Uisangdae Pavilion(의상대)

down side of roof-tile written donators' names and wishes

The Uisangdae pavilion(의상대)

Uisangdae pavilion(의상대) is the place that  Zen master UIsang-daesa(의상대사) sat and meditated. Monk Manhae reconstructed this pavilion to honor the Zen master Uisang as the shape of present in 1925(about 90 years ago) on top of the cliff by the sea. This has renowned for blending harmony with surrounding sea pines, the steep coastal cliff and the East Sea. This is the particularly famous for superb impressive attractions with the scenery of sun-rising. So many poets and writers wrote poems and left their records of  beautiful sightseeing for a long time.

The Hongreonam hermitage(홍련암)

Hongreonam hermitage (홍련암), red lotus hermitage in the literary meaning, was named after that  Zen master Uisang-daesa(의상대사) saw the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy standing on the red lotus, was built above on the stone cave in AD 676(almost 1300 years ago). There is a 10-centimeters hall in the floor that people can see the waves by peeping through the hall, It is located on a cliff at the edge of east coast.

The Bodhisattva of Mercy

15 meters(49 feet) of the height, 700 tons of white granite statue, over-looking the southeast sea, built in 1977, the biggest Buddhist statue among the same sorts at that time, although the short history this Haesugwanemsang(해수관음상; Bodhisattva of Mercy) was adding the meaning to the people with her warm great image. The pond in front of this statue had many coins wishing fortunes. So many wishes as many as coins.  This area was left nothing on the right side of this mountain filled with just black burned land by fire since few years ago. To see the new-born greens was very delightful thing after big tragic fire. Now it was keep going to recover their natural life fortunately. I felt the greatness of time and nature. No fire again, please. 

 Naksansa temple operates various program of temple stay that gives people the temple life, Buddhist culture, experience a temple food, Korean traditional tea culture and attempt to look over ones' mind. There website is consisted on Korean language only as follow. >>click here !! It is better to sending your questions or application to their e-mail address stated on their official home page. 

captured by temple stay of Naksansa temple(낙산사) official home page

A Beautiful Rebirth of abandoned mine, Gwangmyeong Mine Cave in Gahak mountain(광명가학광산동굴) South Korea

What a wonderful experience it is to see such a beautiful performance !!

How dare to guess these arts are able to being shown in the cave?
To boot, at the site of abandoned mine 40 years ago.

This mine cave has become a new landmark of culture and arts in Gwangmyeong-city(광명시) where is located in the neighboring of Seoul. Gwangmyeong mine(광명동굴), operated in 1912-1972 and closed due to bankrupt caused by decreasing of the output, 7.8 Km in the length of total, workers up to 500 persons in the old days, average 250 tons per days in their output of a mine. Mining metals were gold, silver, copper and zinc. Especially in the period under the Japan control, they brought the huge amounts of output from this place to the Japan.

At once,people took a refuge during Korean war(1950-1953) and thus there was a few babies born at that time to its amazement. This was the only one mine in metropolitan area. After closing this one, at a time the rice that was grown up in this area was prohibited to sell because the rice was leachate-contaminated with heavy metal (especially cadmium). After listening these sad histories from the commentator, I felt a sense of intimacy with this cave and compassion to the peoples who lived through life's ordeal.  When I got into the entrance of it, the chill air pumped  into to me, I got a some heart flutter at coming new unusual experience.  

Recently brilliant attempts were taken to give the other centuries to the citizens as highly upgraded tourist attractions. Gwangmyeong city took this mine and,repaired several times for its safety maintenance ,installed the related facilities, opened to the people in 2011. It did not to take a long time that over 700,000 tourists visited here, till the Aug 2014 ( within just three years only). Average temperature in this mine is 13 centigrade. In summer, here is so suitable to keep off the heat that it is crowded with many people together with their family for good summer vacation site.

 What’s more, this one got to rebirth into the finest attractive tourist place with emotional approaches and fresh attempts like as 3D Cinema screening, various performances, art exhibitions, small botanical garden, aquarium filled with first-grade of water.

This concert hall has the excellent role being equal to natural opera house because the sound can be stay double times more as usual hall. With this reason it is possible to make more echo effect that spread out plentiful sounds. Rocks of Mountain Gahak(가학산), this mine, is so hard that it is not able to find out pillar anywhere inside. This cave contains huge amount of underground water and supplies this cooling water to next incinerator the amount of 100 tons a day and is able to cut the cost 100 million money(Korean won) a year at least.

It really paid off !! 
Specialized commentators are ready for you and you just put the safety helmet on your head provided in front of the mine for the 30-40 minutes exploration.
*******Addition on Jun 2015...
Astonishing renovation some zone into Vintage Wine bar !!! This is another attractive spot as for its uniqueness and excellent natural storage facilities. People are able to take a sip various good tasty wines with free of charge, buy wines and cheeses in this particular bar equipped by over 1000 bottles of wine from around the world.

Tips ; Opening from 9 AM to 9:30PM (till Aug31, last entry will be accepted by 8:30PM). 

          Opening from 9 AM to 6PM (from September, last entry will be accepted by 5PM).
          Prepare long sleeve weas in summer (cool inside,average 13 centigrade). 
How to get there;
Take bus No 17 between Gaebong st(개봉역Seoul subway line 1, exit #1) and last stop of this bus bound for this mine. This bus goes via Cheolsan st(철산역subway line 7, exit 2. it's opposite point of  shopping mall 2001 Outlet) and  via  Gwangmyeong KTX station( point 7) also.
                    

Change the way you think about things!! A garbage incinerator in Gwangmyung-city(광명시), South Korea

‘Design’, this word is originated from combination destruct and signature. So now what I want to talk about is …..

What is your image about this plant having with long chimney? What the lovely clouds like cotton sugar! What the strong red colors based on this building? What for?Is this for Santa Claus coming X-mas? Somebody have an idea what it is, already? This is the facility that is necessary one but people don’t want to put in my backyard. Right, this is a garbage incineration plant. When I saw this one, I could not hardly admire the vivid color and the idea beyond routine thinking.  

This was built in Gwangmyung-city located in just west outskirts of Seoul. Of course, this was not built in easily when the city declared the construction of it. The local residents severely protested against the construction of an incinerating facility due to NIMBY syndrome at first. So long time was needed to persuade the citizens. The outer of this building was re-colored again in JUN 2014 according to “Super graphic project of garbage incinerator” by collaboration with Gwangmyung-city and Youngse Kim(김영세) who is famous designer in world widely. This project had been pushed as the way for the change of conception about unpleasant facilities. Many examiners were against this design because red color was so shock in itself and said that it was beyond conception. But the major had positive interesting in this design and asked to them which one of these three designs on the list is mostly left in their head. Of course, they said "he impressive red one".

 Designer said “Why garbage incinerator should be built like a trash? Why not by the beautiful way? Why not? I want to be as a designer who makes even this plant beautiful. I express the dreams in white clouds on the basis of red containing passions and imagine this is the site where the clouds relating with the heaven are able to take a rest comfortably.” Now Gwangmyung-city has become the city where has pretty red plant and sense of art. Of  course, many citizens who live in this city as well as neighboring cities visit and it has loved day by day. Thumbs-up!!

 Tip ; Can you see those letters (동굴전망대) written in Korean ?

 It is Gwangmyung Mine cave near this site (just 5 minutes on foot)

 It has another idea of switching . I want to recommend highly this attractions. Don’t miss it.
== How to get there; Take bus No 17 between Gaebong st(개봉역Seoul subway line 1, exit #1) and last stop of this bus to this mine. This bus goes via Cheolsan st(철산역subway line 7, exit 2 and opposite   site of  shopping mall 2001 Outlet) and  via  Gwangmyeong KTX station( point 7) also.

Gwangmyeong mine's official web site(Korean only) is >>>>click here