Getting me to think the Past, Present and the Future ...Abai Village, Sokcho city(속초시) travel in South Korea

The temperature was dropping sharply day by day just like to rush into the winter. The Sokcho city, located in the far northeast of Korea, was a small town at first but  it became a big city according to migration of lots of refugees population from North Korean after the Korean war(1950-1953).  This city is a gateway to nearby Seoraksan national park(설악산 국립공원)  and is one of the biggest harbor city in the amount of fishery products. And thus many people used to visit not only for their summer holidays but also good reputation of sea products all year round.

 At this time, I skipped over Seoraksan mountai (설악산)because we already went there last summer and I planned to go to the ‘Abai Village’(아바이마을; fathers’ village; dialect of Hamgyeongdo region in North Korea). This is a small village located in Cheongho-dong street in Sokcho(속초) city.  It has the shape of a stripe land area between Cheongcho Lake and the East sea. This village was originally set up as an area to house North Korea refugees those who await to return their hometown in North Korea. Despite of ending Korean war, the country divided into two bodies( South Korea and North Korea) and they could not go back to their hometown never again. So they had to settle down somewhere in south area. After all, large percentage of the refugees lived further in here and named it as Abai village after the deriving of  being of elderly age, “uncle” or “aged male person”. It looked as just small village to the eye but it had sad story about our country.

Here was the ordinary village until that had been famous as filmed sites for K-drama ‘Autumn in My Heart’(Gaeul Donghwa;가을동화) in November,2000 which is romantic television drama reaching a peak viewership of 46.1% in Korea and also was aired on  television in many Asian countries after that.

Drama KBS ' Autumn in My Heart'

The Gat bae(갯배)

The Gaetbae(갯배)  Boat, a floating raft of tires and wood, being operated by people pulling on rope moving the boat across a waterway, served for a long time as the main way, to get from the little island to downtown, just 50 meters distance, instead of going by a round-about way up to 5 kilometer until the recent completion of a bridge made for driving. Especially, the scene that the hero of drama was searching for heroine was so aching in ones heart to viewer that many people want to ride on this boat as being like hero. Yes, this has been known as famous place by drama. But I would like to add some more stories being forgotten as times go by.

‘Abai village’(아바이마을), This is the village having heart broken story. This is the just place where people from North Korea has lived since the date of ceasefire the war(1950-1953) during over 60 years, is still waiting to go back to their hometown with hoping to see their family being left in. In 1952, the code name was ‘Christmas Cargo’. During the Korean War, UN coalition forces (especially US army) and Korean militaries were isolated in Heungnam area of North Korea due to massive influx of Chinese military force supporting the North Korea. The weather was so cold about -30 to -40 centigrade and the status was very urgent. So militaries took a decision of withdrawal troops by the route of the sea. Under way of preparing the evacuation, it happened that refugees who had lived in those areas and nearby areas gathered into Heungnam port to take the boat going to South Korea. Did you ever see these photos?

capture by 두산백과  Meredith Victory called as 'Ship of Miracle'

capture by 두산백과  refugees from North Korea in above ship up to 14000 peron

capture by 두산백과 burning Heungnam port

Captain Leonard Larue, was 35 years old only at that time, said “God’s own hand was at the helm of my little ship.” They safely arrived at Geojedo island near by Busan city on the morning of Christmas day in 1952 after long hard voyage in over 13 hours. After ceasefire, refugees could not go to the hometown, so they settled down in the empty sandy plain by the sea in Sokcho city as the nearest town to approach to go their hometown, had been waiting for the unification of both Korea, The South and The North.

Sokcho city was a small city before. As the inflow of these refugees, the population was increased, the city had become a big city in Gangwondo province, these displaced person gained commercial supremacy of Jungang-market by making market in this zone filled with reeds when they arrived here at first. In this respect, it is not too much to say that Sokcho is the city made by the displaced person. As the years rolled by, the first generation of internally displaced person passed away about in the 50 percentage and the second generation has taken over their business.

abai sundae

Abai Sundae(아바이순대) that is steamed squid stuffed with a mixture of noodles, tofu, vegetables and squids is the famous unique food in this village, being created by old refugees generation from North Korea. Original one was made of the gut of a big animal, tripe, but they replaced it by using squid because it was not easy to get the tripe under lacking of everything after war. Hamheung Naengmyeon(함흥냉면) is also famous food (cold buckwheat noodle).

Another recommendable cuisine in here is as follow.The most favorite food is maybe Manseok dak gangjeong(만석닭강정), the stir-fried chicken formed into small balls and coated in a sweet and spicy source. This is so famous and well known to the people, they can enjoy even other area using quick delivery system. Don’t miss to taste this fried chicken. I could easily see the persons who are holding these boxes. It is very famous and delicious. Not so far from downtown, there is a natural spa area; Cheoksan hot spring district(척산온천지구), there are available for proper accommodations to the tourists also. This is an extraordinary alkaline thermal spring, looks like slightly blue radiance, is good for skin diseases, eye diseases, stomach disorders, neuralgia, blood circulation and relaxing ones’ fatigue, they say.  Next time, wish to visit this hot spring. It was raining when I awoke on the next day. There was Seoraksan mountain in the rain at a long distance.

The Seoraksan mt. in the rain

Sokcho city is one of the most tourist attractions being loved by Koreans and foreigner with its spectacular sceneries of mountain and sea all the year round. This is not disappointed with you. *** How to get there**

Take the inter-city bus from Dong-Seoul bus terminal in Seoul to Sokcho. It takes 2 hrs 50 mins only.  

The Korean’s Bucket List. Mountain, sea and my mind became one!!! Naksan Provincial Park (낙산 도립공원) in Gangwondo province

Whenever I visited, I always had a feeling something new. The place was Naksansa temple(낙산사), Hongreonam hermitage(홍련암), Uisangdae(의상대) in Yangyang(양양), Gangwondo, South Korea

The Hongreonam hermitage(홍련암)

It seemed like that winds took a rest in here, clouds softly floated around and waves sang a song having in many ways of feeling. What all I had done in their was to become one with the nature. As usual as just like nature itself. In spring, summer, fall and in winter, it always shows indescribable beauty and the comforts. Absolutely  this is one of the bucket lists must to go to the Korean. When I grew up, I visited here so many times for the educational experiences in elementary school, the summer vacation and for the rest times together with family. Maybe many Koreans had same experience as me

.This is located on the slopes of Naksan mountain (낙산) midway between Sokcho-city(속초 )and Yangyang-gun(양양) and mid-spot between Seorak beach and Naksan beach also in the East coast of South Korea. Naksan means the place where the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy(Gwanseum bosal;관세음보살) stay. The goddess of mercy is so familiar with the human that she help them comfortable and happy according to the record of Buddhism.

Naksansa temple(낙산사) was built in AD 671 by great master Uisang-daesa who was a priest of high virtue and studied in China of ancient Dang kingdom and also famous master in the China at that time. After return from China and arrived at here, he got treasures of Buddhist prayer beads made of crystal and magic dazzling pearl. And he received a divine revelation about the site of temple after the praying of 27 days. Through the long time this temple had been several procedures of reconstruction and expanding due to severe damage by fire, foreign invasions and the Korean war(1950-1953). Regretfully, the biggest damage of this temple recently that almost parts of one and treasures being destroyed was done by the fire in the spring of 2005. This one was restored through historical research and reopened to the public in 2007 by the efforts and donations of all across the nations’ Buddhists. Fortunately, Hongreonam hermitage, Uisangdae pavilion and Haesugwaneumsang statue did avoid the misfortune of the big fire in 2005.

The Uisangdae Pavilion(의상대)

down side of roof-tile written donators' names and wishes

The Uisangdae pavilion(의상대)

Uisangdae pavilion(의상대) is the place that  Zen master UIsang-daesa(의상대사) sat and meditated. Monk Manhae reconstructed this pavilion to honor the Zen master Uisang as the shape of present in 1925(about 90 years ago) on top of the cliff by the sea. This has renowned for blending harmony with surrounding sea pines, the steep coastal cliff and the East Sea. This is the particularly famous for superb impressive attractions with the scenery of sun-rising. So many poets and writers wrote poems and left their records of  beautiful sightseeing for a long time.

The Hongreonam hermitage(홍련암)

Hongreonam hermitage (홍련암), red lotus hermitage in the literary meaning, was named after that  Zen master Uisang-daesa(의상대사) saw the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy standing on the red lotus, was built above on the stone cave in AD 676(almost 1300 years ago). There is a 10-centimeters hall in the floor that people can see the waves by peeping through the hall, It is located on a cliff at the edge of east coast.

The Bodhisattva of Mercy

15 meters(49 feet) of the height, 700 tons of white granite statue, over-looking the southeast sea, built in 1977, the biggest Buddhist statue among the same sorts at that time, although the short history this Haesugwanemsang(해수관음상; Bodhisattva of Mercy) was adding the meaning to the people with her warm great image. The pond in front of this statue had many coins wishing fortunes. So many wishes as many as coins.  This area was left nothing on the right side of this mountain filled with just black burned land by fire since few years ago. To see the new-born greens was very delightful thing after big tragic fire. Now it was keep going to recover their natural life fortunately. I felt the greatness of time and nature. No fire again, please. 

 Naksansa temple operates various program of temple stay that gives people the temple life, Buddhist culture, experience a temple food, Korean traditional tea culture and attempt to look over ones' mind. There website is consisted on Korean language only as follow. >>click here !! It is better to sending your questions or application to their e-mail address stated on their official home page. 

captured by temple stay of Naksansa temple(낙산사) official home page

Jinju Namgang Yudeung ( Lantern 진주 남강 유등축제) Festival

Maybe this is the most favorite lantern festival loved by Korean. This floating lantern festival opens first weekend of October in general on the river of Namgang  and Jinju castle inside in the Jinju city and has been hosted by Jinju Culture & Art Foundation annually. What I felt was they devoted all their energy for this festival. It was worthy to rush to visit, certainly.

The tunnel of wish lanterns

This floating lantern has long history dated back to 1592(over 400 years). Lantern in the river was used for military purpose to prevent Japanese troops from wading the Namgang-river. And for military signal with the army outside of castle another kind of lantern to the sky was used also when Japan invaded Korea(during Joseon dynasty in 1592-1598). Secondary, it was a kind of way to get in touch with family under being departed one in the chaos of war. After war, Jinju citizens had floated lanterns to tribute for the brave souls and innocent people sacrificed over 70,000  during the war.

Few couple of decade, Jinju city government  shed new light on this historical event and recreated this custom into festival since 2000. Recently it is new trend to make their own local festival adopted the long historical story by the local autonomous entity. Many Koreans love this festival though its location is so far from Seoul. Lanterns illuminated in the river as well as in the castle. With this reason, the strolling was not limited only the river but could reach the time-honoured castle. Needless to say, I enjoyed the creative lanterns inside the castle. They composed it with the theme of present and traditional one,various types of all ages, diverse experiences for visitors, riding boat, temporary stage on the river and so on. They certainly did their best to hold big and creative festival, I felt. 

The wishing lanterns

The creative lanterns

The pleasure boat, it runs into the floating lantern on the river

The stage on the river

lit up the castle 

The creative lantern 'Angel and woodcutter'  being inspiration from the Korean traditional fairy tale 

How to get there;
1. Express bus  from Gangnam in Seoul …3hrs/30mins
2. Inter-city bus from Nambu-terminal(남부터미널) in Seoul
3. KTX-train from Seoul station …3hrs/40mins
                            

Eulalia(silver grasses) festival of Mindung mountain(민둥산 억새축제) in Jeongseon/Gwangwon province

It’s getting cold, fall has deepen.
Today is the day that I am planing to go the MinDung mountain for silver grasses festival. Festival is held at 19 Sep-26 Oct in this year, in general they hold it in mid October every year.

I was told that the peak time is in mid of October. I woke up so early because it would be take 3 hrs 30 minutes to MinDung mt. area from Seoul by transportation. The tracking course would be taken 4 hrs at least as I heard. At this time I used the tour bus because I didn't want to drive the long distance on a same day for return. The bus arrived at around 10 AM, thanks to such a early starting from Seoul, the bus run at high speed without any traffic jam. Looked back the conditions, early arrival was the best choice to went up and down this mountain. 

Look at the so many early birds at the beginning point

Choose the straight soft course(2.8 kilo meters), please, for your better time

Even in soft course

There were gentle slope(완경사) and steep one(급경사). I chose gentle slope.But I recognized so quickly that it was not so gentle at all.    A slope of over 15 degrees almost went on the last peak point made me hard, so I was exhausted completely. However it was also true that the mountain gave me the plenty of picturesque scenery. Yes, it was really absolutely worth it. The trees were burning with crazy red, brilliant yellow, brown and other colors.   

Ah!!!!  Silver grasses !!!  Finally, I did it.

This is very famous place of Silver Grass Habitat in Korea. That region is very deep and remote country village. Despite of  not  easy approach, people do not hesitate to hike this peak in each fall. Vast amount of Silver grasses was spread over widely from top to the seventh of a ridge. This particular zone of the top was made by that people who lived at near village and burned this area to get wild edible greens so many years ago.

I was so hard to get the summit. But as times go by,many views were deeply printed in my mind already.
How to get there;
1.    Take train from Cheongnyangni station(Seoul) to Mindungsan station
          (Mugunghwa Line starting)-several times a day
2.    Take train from Seoul station to Mindungsan station
         (Saemaul Line)-once a day
3. Take an intercity bus heading to Jeongseon bus stop from
     DongSeoul bus terminal(East Seoul bus terminal) and
     Take a taxi to Mindungsan
     ---not recommendable, rare bus schedules to Mindungsan point
     ---in case of using taxi,it takes 35 minutes at least(25 KMs),expensive cost
You can make a reservation for train at their official web site. www.letskorail.com
Need to prepare some foods for lunch and drinking water.
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