If you want to be surrounded by Mother Nature of Gangwon-do, to visit here with V-train is recommended !

Gangwon-do, which all Koreans love and located in the east of Seoul, is all proud of the clean air and beautiful natural scenery. However, it would be an accurate expression to interpret the fact that clean air, if expressed otherwise, implies that traffic is inconvenient. It took a long distance by train from Seoul.  We chose to Cheoram station as the starting point to ride the V-train starting from Cheoram station or Buncheon station. Going far to get on that V-train? Sure, it was. You will find out, if you have an experience, it is worthy.

 Travel tips;
Most Koreans choose packages offered by day trips or two-day trips, which also visit nearby sightseeing spots because it would be very tight if someone tries to do it all in one day using public transportation in personal. This place is in a quiet far remote place from Seoul, and there is not much public transportation. This is a very popular train trip to Koreans, so there are many travel agencies in Korea that deal with these packages, but most of them are shown in Korean only, so it seems that there are many difficulties to be explained in English. For more information, visit Korailtour.com or call 1544-4590/ send email. 

Cheoram is a coal mine area that was great in the past 1940s and 1960s. Now it ends its use. Coal mine history village near the station shows the story of that time, I could also enjoy a part of the old coal mine town on a passing train. This tourist train is always popular and mostly fully booked, we chose weekday tourist train so we did not have a lot of difficulties to make a reservation, but on weekends the train will be sold out as soon as it was opened a month before the reservation as I heard. It is recommended to use weekdays. We did not want to miss the autumn foliage, so we made a reservation nearly a month ago.

The train has only three carriages and the interior is decorated with retro style and it consists of a total of 158 seats, which is a main factor that is not able to supply the fulfill those needs. It runs only 2 times a day on the weekday and 3 times a day on the weekend per each direction. The locomotives dragging the three carriages is drawn tiger stripe on a white background, nicknamed the "baby white tiger train." Once upon a time, the lots of tigers lived this rugged mountain that they had expressed the concept on the train. In summer, a fan is a substitute for air conditioner. In winter, stove using with charcoal for firewood is used to warm inside carriage as the heater for heating equipment. It is a scenery that is difficult to see these days. It is fully analogue system. It is made of glass on three sides except the roof, so we could drink fresh air through opened window from the beginning to the end and it was possible to also adjust the height of the windows. There were luminescent stickers on the ceiling, all the people sang along and yelled out a cheer just like to be in the club thanks to its' sparkling stickers together with some exciting popular song when on passing several tunnels.

It did not take so long time till to admire the spectacular scenic views spread out along the remote mountainous valley train runs. The whole mountain wearing in yellow and red color greeted me. I was so happy for my luck to see the wonderful leaves at one time that I could appreciate for a lifetime. Because of the air that is quite much fresher from the city, the color of the fall foliage looked more transparent than one of the city. According to the friend who boarded it before, the azalea filled the whole mountains in spring, and the mountains covered with white snow in winter shows upscale view like Oriental painting different from those in the city. The best choice of this train trip is said to be used in winter. The V-train run between Cheoram and Bucheon which is the narrow gorges where steep cliffs and rocky mountains are in Gangwon-do and brought me to a difficult place to get to if it is not a train. The section is 28 kilometers long, 30 kilometers per hour, so you can enjoy panoramic view of about an hour.

We got off the train two times at Shengbu Station and Yangnuan Station. In these slow-moving tiny stations, people moved slowly and a little old-fashioned vibe enough to invoke nostalgia. We took photos and bought local products and food even though for a short stopover time and took it to the car and enjoyed it. The Yangwon station, which was the smallest train station in Korea, was so small that you’re not able to recognize it unless you look closely. The cosmos blooms next to the railroad added a taste of fall. One bright yellow ginkgo tree beside the railroad seemed like to be writing the story of the fall. The destination station, Buncheon station, has set up sisterhood relationship with Zermatt station in Switzerland. It is a heavy snowy area in the winter, so they set up Santa village and greeted travelers with diverse event during winter season. We met Santa Claus and deer in the fall.

The reason why must go to the Jeju Island? Udo Island is right in there!

Udo is a small island on the eastern side of Jeju Island, the largest island in Korea.

What’s the charms of Udo island where about 2 million of the 15 million visitors (12 million Koreans and 3 million foreigners) who visited Jeju Island during last year stopped by this small island. What makes so many tourists go from the main island to another small island within Jeju?  

  The ship left from Seongsan port located in the east part of main Jeju reached at the Haumokdong of Udo Is. after about 20 minutes. You may have to grab your hair throughout the road because of the strong wind. I heard that the name of Udo Is. was named because it resembles the lying cow. I paid 6000 won for shuttle sightseeing bus which can get on and off each stop, got on the bus and realized that I surely had come to the place of my wish. People can get off each stop, look around, and get on the next bus again. In the fun explanation of local bus driver living in Udo, the bus was filled with laugh so soon from top to bottom. Are you ready to catch a bunch of happiness?

I got off the first attractions drop at the Geommeolle (Black sands) beach named after the sand is black. It was truly a 'Skill of God' that I went down to the shore and boarded the boat. My travel instinct! To be frank, I hesitated whether to take a boat or not because I couldn’t swim and I became a little nervous. Give my thanks to life jacket which gave me the courage. The geological characteristics of the volcanic island and the beauty of nature had blown away all the fears at once. Strongly recommended! 20 minutes boarding time, 20000 won in Korean cash.

The fault cliff like stacked books(Huhae seokbyeok), the best of top 8 views of Udo island & Udo peak and lighthouses where you can see all of Udo at a glance. This was taken on a boat. 

When the sea water suddenly spew from between rocks, a rainbow appears miraculously

The Dongan gyeonggul cave where big whales once lived.The cave is at the end of this black sands beach and you can enter at low tide. Don't worry. Usually the daytime is at low tide.

Udo is a small island that produces mainly garlic and peanuts because it’s impossible to cultivate rice, is much less developed and much pure than Jeju Island. The residents started to cultivate peanuts from 30 years ago, judging that the soil, intense sunlight and sea breeze of Udo would be suitable for peanut farming. The original seeds were long and large, but when they harvested it, it was as small as it is now. They started to cultivate and manage as a special product considering the rareness. Current residents are thoroughly controlling the seeds, and the Jeju Agricultural Technology Center is giving a lot of support. Ice cream topped with Udo peanuts being produced only in Udo island. It is sold on many different names in the island, but in fact there is no big difference in taste. This peanut is much smaller, harder, savory and rounded than regular. 

Udongbong peak and Lighthouse located at the highest level in Udo. It takes about an hour for round hiking from shopping area of Geommeolle(Black beach) to the peak and those who have a busy schedule or weak physical strength can pass it. Please go up after sightseeing boat because there is physical exhaustion. It is the point where you can see all of Udo, 7 out of 10.

The Biyangdo Island

Biyangdo Is. camping area, one of the most famous places in Jeju Island, where the yellow lighthouse was impressive. A true nomad with a puppy was in a tent when I visited in this spot. Even though it was a cold day! The starry night! Just by even thinking it was so romantic.

The Seobinbaeksa(서빈백사해안) beach with lots of photographers. I couldn’t take my eyes off the stunning crystal emerald water. It became much more famous as a Korean advertising spot of Pocari Sweat. I heard the white sandy beach has been created by the accumulation of popcorn-like red algal nodules instead of sand and it was so impressive to me.

Restaurant Mosillaegi (모실래기) where I came in without thinking and met the essence of fresh seafood and is located in the beside of sandy beach. The food here is just amazing. In addition, the prices are reasonable and the wall was full of reviews by those who had visited before. Including the signature of the very famous chef!
I missed the shuttle sightseeing bus in front of my eyes. I had to walk about 15 minutes from the coast to the harbor. Then I knew. The very right best thing of traveling is to walk! On trips, let’s put down your haste for a while. This moment would not come again.
 

Your bucket lists for Jeju Island-Episode1-Seongsan Ilchulbong Sunrise Peak(성산일출봉)

Jeju Island(제주도), the most favorite attractions wish to go for Korean as well as foreign traveler inside Korea. According to statistics, there were over 15 million of peoples visited here during last year. In recent years, 'To live in Jeju Island for a month' has become a wannabe life style to Korean. People love its’ unique stunning nature and quite different culture compared with the main land. 

The view of Seongsan ilchulbong(sunrise peak) from the next seashore

Thanks to mild and warm temperature all the year and masterpiece resulted in specific volcanic activity, this island has boasted diverse flora, dark gray volcanic rocks and ash soil, clean and awesome emerald color beaches. This is treasure box of geo-nature. It is said that it was made by several times of volcanic eruption ever since made 700 to 1200 thousand years before. I dare say that the best attractions spot among spectacular beautiful views in this awesome island must be the very right Seongsan Sunrise Peak(성산일출봉,Seongsan ilchulbong). This is situated in the eastern seaboard of Jeju Island. For this reason, spectacular sunrise always was given to the early morning hikers. On each New Year’s here is crowded with lots of people who meet the first sun of the year and make a wish while see the wonderful sunrise.

When I arrived at the morning around 9AM, there were already many peoples in ready to hike this peak. In particular, in spring and fall season, here is always crowded with groups of middle and high school students because they consider this destination as the essential course of a trip for educational aspect together with the Mount Halla. The group youths visited for the experiential learning were busy bustling to take a group picture with peak as the backdrop. There was pleasant and vibrant noise. Temperature of this island is much higher than as main Korea. When I visited there in the beginning of September, the temperature was rather close to the end of summer due to the strong sunlight. I headed for the peak step by step as if I was forced by the power of magnet.

Downside view from almost top
The youth passing me ran just like rocket with loud laughs. They said it takes 50 minutes to one hour enough to climb up and down this small peak. But not me. But not me. My poor body strength. So, I had to stop several times to get my breath back again. To be fortunately, there were proper brief rest zone in the many points. Thanks to break, I'm sure that I could put the beautiful sceneries filled with fine beaches, waves and winds surrounding this peak, unique rocks and diverse flora into my eyes and mind much more than those who went to the peak. The joy of life comes from unexpected moment sometimes.

When I reached the peak, many people were making their memories in their own way. To be frank with you, I was a little disappointed when I saw the peak. It looked like a small football ground slightly hollowed land as if the spaceship touched down there. It was unusual for the top edge to be as sharp as the end of the crown. I came up with my mind for a while that I wanted to run down to that wide ground. This peak was an island at first. As times go by the sands and gravels were flown from the neighboring seashore into this islet and it had resulted in the connection to the main land of Jeju Island exquisitely. As I descended from the summit, it seemed that the narrow and slender beach on the far left of this peak is evident of its' formation. The descending wooden stairs made a harmony with the greens and I had to wait because the pure and marvelous nature were providing the fantastic shooting points to visitors.

FACTS: This is the typical soft tuff cone in the world and provides important formula text about the eruptive and depositional process of hydro-magmatic volcanoes. It said, this was made by the hydro-magmatic eruption of volcano under shallow sea bed, just under the sea about 120 meters in depth, five thousand years before presumably. This peak has vertical cliffs showing diverse inner structures in three sides except west side of it formed by erosive action of the strong winds and waves since ever made. In 2007, Jeju Volcanic Island and Lava Tubes became the first site selected for its natural significance by UNESCO. It ranked top 7 in the world superb natural landscape in 2011.

TIPS: The best time to visit Jeju Is. is in the spring or in the fall. Jeju Island has lots of tourist attractions to see and feel. Segmenting it into east, west, south, middle and neighbouring islands is also one of the ways to save your time.

Changdeokgung palace complex in Seoul,Korea, UNESCO World cultural Heritage

“My round of Joseon dynasty shall be different from the previous kings.”

The kings who eagerly dreamed a good and wise king than as before. The place where left their passion and anguish, I visited just the Changdeokgung palace complex.

The Changdeokgung(창덕궁), literally ‘prospering virtue palace’, is the palace of Joseon Dynasty which is the most beautiful, longest, being loved one to the kings and well preserved place at present time. Changdeokgung was designated on UNESCO World Heritage in 1997 with an outstanding exceptional example of Far Eastern palace architecture and design, blending harmoniously with the surrounding landscape. With this historical and beautiful value, the first ladies of G20 visited this palace in Nov2010 during G20 Summits period.

The history of Changdeokgung palace and location

This was built as a secondary palace in 1405 by the order of King Taejong, 3^rd king of Joseon dynasty. It is located at the foot of Ungbong Peak of mountain Bugaksan in Seoul. It is named also ‘East Palace’ along with Chaggyeonggung because it is situated in the east side of Gyeongbok palace, the primary palace. Each complex is placed in harmony with the topography without regular system as contrast with the Gyeongbok palace which is overawed and authoritative by standing the line and symmetrical placement in flatland. Korea is mountainous country. As this reason, the kings might be more familiar than the flat main palace. All palace in Hanyang( today’s Seoul) was destroyed by the Japanese invasion (1592-1598). As talking of inauspicious side in Gyeongbok palace, Changdeok palace reconstructed and took over as a new royal court by the King Gwanghaegun until Gyeongbok palace rebuilt in 1865 and was used through several process of destroy and reconstruction till the end of dynasty( almost 500 years).

The distinct feature of Changdeonggung palace complex and Secret garden

Palace, up to 50000 square meters, is divided into front outer yards consisted of the governmental offices, royal private residential area and inner yards of the rear garden (secret garden).This dynasty was established by the base of Confucian ideology. The principle of it was “Humble and Simple”. It was also applied when the palace complex was constructed. However they did not give up their attempt to make it graceful and elegant instead of being glossy. Especially, garden area (rear garden, secret garden), well composed by pavilions, ponds, trees, oddly shaped stones and rocks shows outstanding view especially boast characteristic and beautiful harmony with nature. This has the feature of untypical aesthetic value of beauty.  People thought Gyeongbok palace as the inauspicious site in some side although it was the primary palace according to Fengshui principle, Chinese geomantic principles, many kings preferred to stay new Changdeok palace (창덕궁) from the beginning period of dynasty.

The vicinity of Donhwamun Gate(돈화문)

This is the oldest main palace gate, built in 1412 and reconstructed during the King Gwanghaegun period(in 1608), and is two stories building where bell and bass drum were installed for alarming of the time(not inside at present time). This was exclusive gate for the king when he went for the Jongmyo shrine where the royal family’s ancestral tablets were placed and ancestral rites were performed regularly during the Joseon dynasty. The gatekeepers’ quarter was changed into the stone wall at now. Besides, a new road was opened between palace and Jongmyo shrine in Japanese occupation period. So it is no more accessible as free as like the past, is true to get an very stuffy impression.

The Injeongmoon gate and yard(인정문)

captured by book Changdeokgung written Jongdeok Choi

After passing by the oldest Geumcheongyo stone bridge and one gate again, I reached at Injeongmoon gate. In front of this gate, in general, the coronation of a king was held concisely on 6^th day of the death of previous king because the throne couldn't leave it empty for long time after death of former king. For a moment, I visualized the ideal and passion of new king in my mind. This yard has the trapezoidal type instead of typical rectangular one. Maybe this was caused by the purpose of avoiding the mountain terrain leading to the Jongmyo shrine.

The Injeongjeonjeon Hall and vicinity(인정전)

This is the national treasure and main hall of palace. Official grand ceremonies like as audiences with ministers, reception of foreign envoys and so on were held. The external appearance looks like two stories building, but the inside is one story building having the glossy interior and high ceiling.

At the front, there were the king’s seat and the folding screen on the back of the chair which means the world of ruling by the king(painted the sun, moon, five peaks and two fast-flowing cascades usually shown in the historic drama in television). Present appearance was reconstructed in 1804 after several destroy and rebuilt. In 1900’, and thus it shows various  combined cultural elements by adopting the Western culture( eg, the light, curtain and gloss window was equipped and the clay stone floor was changed into wood).

The guardians of palace on the eaves (Japsang 잡상),
Korean traditional decorative coloring on wood ( Dancheong 단청)
Clay dolls on the eaves of tiled roof, Japsang (잡상,the meaning is several shape) which they are from the characters of Chinese novel HsiYuChi(journey to the West), are the guardians protecting the people from devil. Dancheong(단청), Korean traditional decorative coloring on wood building and artifacts, using only five colors( each color means; blue-east white-west  red-south  black-north  yellow-center), works not only as decoration role but also for practical purposes such as to protect building surfaces against temperature or insects and make the crudeness of materials less conspicuous.

left; Deumeu(드므)
 right;rank stones for officials and thin-layered stone plates on the floor

Deumeu(드므), the vessel keeping for firefighting water, has the symbolic superstitious meaning that fire devil surprised at his reflection image in the water and ran away. Officials stood in line according to their rank on the back side of the stone. The higher they are, the closer they are to the king. The civil official stood on the east side, the military one did on the west side. Thin layered stone plates being cut along the grain into 10~20-cm-thick slice on the front yard of this building makes this hall more prominent architecture. This type of stone prevented to slip down by the rain and to dazzle by the strong sunlight. Civil service literary examinations were held in this yard. Through the resurface the yard, now a day the stone was replaced with flat type stones, it diminished the scent of the past regretfully.

Huijeongdang Hall and Daejojeon Hall for the royal family residential court

Huijeongdang Hall(휘정당)

This was used for the king’s chamber at first, used for council in the later. This was rebuilt in 1920 by using the materials of the Gangnyeongjeon of Gyeongbok palace after destroyed by the fire in 1917. At that time, they adopted the style of Chinese in Beijing and Western style in many part of this building.

The flower steps of Daejojeon rear yard(대조전)

This is the official residence of the queen. Also many kings were born and died in here. The flower steps, in general, for the space of women, composed to plant flowers or trees on the sloping hill. (in Daejojeon rear yard)

The buildings for the rising sun; for the little crown prince

Heuiwooru(희우루) on the opposite site of secret garden ticketing office

Heuiwooro was the lecture room for the little prince and changed the purpose into the space of traditional doctor for caring the king later.

The Nakseonjae hall and vicinity, the nest of the young King Heonjong for his lover

Nakseonjae(낙선재)
These buildings, Nakseonjae(낙선재), Seokbokheon and Sugangjae, were built in 1847 for the royal concubine in King Heonjong reign. After his first queen died, he exceptionally attended the selection site for coming new queen. But his grandmother chose another girl instead of the girl who was fixed in his mind on. As the no prince was born in three years, he finally took the girl as the royal concubine. This vicinity was composed of humble, simple and in neat like the houses of the Joseon literati, but the hidden refine in places made me feel another aesthetic. The king spent the times with her at his rest time in Nakseonjae. Seokbokheon is the residential house for her on the next door. However, their dramatic love story did not last so long (just for three years only) because the king died of disease at the age of 22. She lived until 76 years old. Love like as the short spring time!

 the outside view sitting on the floor

ice pattern under the floor

The small wall for firefighting has the pattern of ice under the floor. 

The Secret Garden(비원), the most attractive destination of this palace

Huwon (rear garden),Biwon (secret garden) Forbidden garden( due to restriction area by the king) North garden (located on the north site). It has been named so many names as before. Present name ‘Secret garden’ was derived from the office name to maintain this garden in Japanese occupation period. However the name used through long period was the ‘Huwon’. They planted the flowers and broad-leaved trees, up to 26000 specimens of 100 indigenous trees, made many beautiful pavilions, lotus ponds and other architectures along the topography in each valley harmoniously. This was accessed from both Changdeokgung and Changgyeonggung palace because there was no barrier between them in the past till Japanese occupation period (1910-1945). This is the palace garden where royal family members strolled and meditated in private. This was used also for venue for banquets, military drill, archery range and so on.

The ideal and vision of King Jeongjo, Buyongjeong, Pond and Juhamnu Pavilion

Buyongji pond(부용지)

In the pond, small islet means round sky and square means land . Buyongjeong(부용정),re-opened in 2012, is the architectural highlight of the Korean traditional pavilion.

Buyongjeong(부용정)

The cross-shape of the pavilion symbolizes the full blooming lotus and the two stone legs on the front part seem like man submerges his leg to the pond. The King Jeongjo rebuilt this one and changed it into present name. He invited high-ranking officials, made fishing, had their legs submerged on the pond, floated the boat and made poems. Person who did not compose poem in time dropped this small islet as a penalty for a short time. His father was killed in the rice chest by his grandfather King Yeongjo when he was a child. He wanted to communicate with all his heart to his officials and dreamed the new era of Joseon dynasty.

front; Eosumun(어수문) rear; Juhamnu(주합루)

The Juhamnu(주합루) of 2 story building located on the opposite site, is the site where preserved and published the books ( on 1^st floor) and discussed the knowledge and politics with young talented people(on 2^nd floor). The sign board of this entrance(Eosumun) contains his hope that officials show their ability in full in front of king as like fish meets the water. The era without political strife, he was a real good and wise king left many great brilliant achievement.

The Aeryeonji Pond 

Aeryongji pond(애련정)

In summer, this pond was filled with lotus flowers. It blossoms beautiful flower in the dirty soil pond. It symbols the men of virtue.

The Jondeokjeong Pavilion and vicinity

Seungjaejeong(승재정) from the Jondeokjeong(존덕정)

This was the pond of gourd-shaped bottle at first and reduced to this size resembling the Korean peninsula map shape. Along the line of this pond each pavilion boasts its beauty of itself.

Jondeokjeong(존덕정)

blue and yellow dragon ceiling and poem tablet in the right

The hexagonal pavilion of the double-layered roof and ceiling in blue and yellow dragon and  poem tablet of King Jeongjo. “ Small streams may shine under the moonlight, but there is only one moon”

The Ongnyucheon Stream and vicinity (Jade Stream)

Cheongui pavilion(청의정)

Cheongui pavilion is the place of rice seedling by the king and made the roof from straw cultivated in this field. Roof made from straw instead of heavy tiled roof is very impressive and skinny pillar and rafter looks very light like as slim girl.

The Yeongyeongdang Hall

This residential area having 120 rooms was built for the Jinjakrye ceremony of King Sunjo by Crown Prince Hyomyeong in 1828 and rebuilt in 1865. It has the style of household of the gentry despite of location in the palace area. King Sunjo lived here for a short year when he substituted his thrown into his crown prince. This has double zone for King’s quarter(Sarangchae사랑채 such as living room) and Queen’s quarter(Anchae안채 such as inner private room).

King's quart(사랑채)

Queen's quarter(안채)

Seonhyangjae(선향재) is the study having Chinese style side wall and Western style blind

Nongsujeong pavilion(농수정)

I love this palace which endures so long hard times.

Chinese Juniper tree 750 years old

Wonderful shot !!!
Those girls wearing Hanbok(Traditional dress of Korea)

Get the detail from their official web site. click here !!!