The Daughters of the Sea--Haenyeo Museum(해녀박물관) on the Jeju Island, South Korea

“Haenyeo”(해녀). This is the word to refer those female divers who works especially under the sea in Korea. They gather seaweed, abalone, octopus, clams, sea urchin and other sea products. This word has meaning something special melting in their life beyond description itself as just a kind of job. In recent time, we are able to see them in Jeju Island (제주도) only, far away one hour by airplane from the capital Seoul in Korea.

The teenage diving girl is catching abalone.

I didn’t expect big volume of museum for unique female diver.  This museum is located neighboring the small cozy village by the sea. When I grew up, I saw them across the nation wide. But the number of them had decreased little by little because it is very hard job to work under the sea. For this reason, now we are just only able to see them in this island within Korea. The main reason why it remains in this island only is because of the special condition of island and poor environment for life. I surely wanted to visit this small space.

The stone statue of Haenyeo(female diver)

When I entered this museum, symbolic artifact featuring of female divers greeted me. After ticketing, staff guided me to see the video about female divers story on the right side of the information desk. Although it was just only 10 minutes documentary image, it was enough for me to get much more strong impression about them than I expected.

There were female divers through the whole country of Korea till the 1960s. They couldn’t be found out in main land recent time anymore. Jeju Island(제주도) was the most activated area in this country since long time ago. They had to lay specialty to the King and central government during all the former dynasty because this island has been rich in the marine products and it had boasted the best in quality when comparing with other sea fields. In the beginning, men undertook the duty. As time went by, many numbers of men ran away into to the land because they couldn’t tolerate the hard condition in nature and intensity of hard work. From long time ago, this reason resulted in the number of female is more than the number of men, in unique population composition rate in this island. As the results, ladies had managed to take over the economic duty for family as well as preparing of principal products instead of their husband. The social position of them as a significant role to manage in all parts of their society is quite different with other area in this country.

The typical half-sea half-farm village of old Jeju Island

Furthermore, land was so infertile (this island was composed by the several volcanic activities) that they could not cultivate diverse agricultural products and always suffered from food shortage. All that people could do was just to cultivate small amount of grain and agricultural products and to gather the food resources from the sea. Their greatness is just not only in the tenacious hold on life and strong pioneer spirit but also in their wonderful working skills under the sea. They usually started to learn how to swim at the age of seven or eight, skilled up their diving abilities as they grow and became a full-scale woman diver member at the age seventeen to eighteen. They can dive in general fifteen to twenty feet (6 meters) in depth without oxygen tank, sometimes to seventy feet (21 meters) and for over one minute even to three minutes.

The working female diver without any equipment under the sea and she is wearing old type swim suit just for made by cotton cloth 

When they work, they do without using any underwater diving equipment like oxygen tank in unique. It couldn’t be done without invincible spirit of great courage, long experiences and accumulated technology about sea. It was the job beyond job for their life.

The sound (Sumbisori) like whistling to get their breath back when they come out surface of the sea shows that how amazing their unique and excellent diving technique as well as astonishing scientific discovery as the result of gaining through their body are. It is close to the sounds made by whale and able to provide fresh air into their body in short seconds with this way. With the changing years, there has been changed in their tools and clothes but they do still the same skill of old way when they gather the sea products.

 The old house where they lived and the hanging round ball-like tube with fishnet (old type) on the stone wall

The Bulteok area--This is the zone Haenyeo are resting at a fireplace after finishing their work, dried their clothes, shared some food and chattered about the daily life and diving skills

The tools for dive

The Teu boat--primitive style of boat used for catching fish, collecting seaweed and transporting haenyeo when they worked in the far distance from the land

 The seafood taken by them became to be sold expensive because it is regarded as valued nature products. As they earned the money much more than before, they send their daughters to the land to educate well and get more comfort life. So, ironically, it became one of the key reasons of fall-of the number of them sharply. Who can dare blame their opinion? For the reasons of hard working condition, sharp decrease of sea products and it is true that these female divers might be disappeared in couples of decades and be left just as the name of old traditional unique culture in this island. The view overlooking the blue sea from the observation rest area on third floor was enough for me to feel deep impression with wild wind and waves they meet every day. How clean and brilliant sky it was!

The small village neighboring to this museum

Those ladies who was born as the daughter of sea, learnt the swimming and diving before knowing what the sea shall imply to their coming life, faced harsh reality and managed to duties of life in assertive attitude. Sincerely, this museum must be small but deep meaningful place dedicate to their great trace of life. Yet the labor song what embrace their plight life seems like to remain in my ears.
*Update>> They are listed on Intangible Cultural heritage of Humanity by UNESCO on NOV2016. 

Operation; 9 AM to 5 PM except on first and third Monday every month and some special holiday. For more details please refer to their official web site.

Your bucket lists for Jeju Island-Episode1-Seongsan Ilchulbong Sunrise Peak(성산일출봉)

Jeju Island(제주도), the most favorite attractions wish to go for Korean as well as foreign traveler inside Korea. According to statistics, there were over 15 million of peoples visited here during last year. In recent years, 'To live in Jeju Island for a month' has become a wannabe life style to Korean. People love its’ unique stunning nature and quite different culture compared with the main land. 

The view of Seongsan ilchulbong(sunrise peak) from the next seashore

Thanks to mild and warm temperature all the year and masterpiece resulted in specific volcanic activity, this island has boasted diverse flora, dark gray volcanic rocks and ash soil, clean and awesome emerald color beaches. This is treasure box of geo-nature. It is said that it was made by several times of volcanic eruption ever since made 700 to 1200 thousand years before. I dare say that the best attractions spot among spectacular beautiful views in this awesome island must be the very right Seongsan Sunrise Peak(성산일출봉,Seongsan ilchulbong). This is situated in the eastern seaboard of Jeju Island. For this reason, spectacular sunrise always was given to the early morning hikers. On each New Year’s here is crowded with lots of people who meet the first sun of the year and make a wish while see the wonderful sunrise.

When I arrived at the morning around 9AM, there were already many peoples in ready to hike this peak. In particular, in spring and fall season, here is always crowded with groups of middle and high school students because they consider this destination as the essential course of a trip for educational aspect together with the Mount Halla. The group youths visited for the experiential learning were busy bustling to take a group picture with peak as the backdrop. There was pleasant and vibrant noise. Temperature of this island is much higher than as main Korea. When I visited there in the beginning of September, the temperature was rather close to the end of summer due to the strong sunlight. I headed for the peak step by step as if I was forced by the power of magnet.

Downside view from almost top
The youth passing me ran just like rocket with loud laughs. They said it takes 50 minutes to one hour enough to climb up and down this small peak. But not me. But not me. My poor body strength. So, I had to stop several times to get my breath back again. To be fortunately, there were proper brief rest zone in the many points. Thanks to break, I'm sure that I could put the beautiful sceneries filled with fine beaches, waves and winds surrounding this peak, unique rocks and diverse flora into my eyes and mind much more than those who went to the peak. The joy of life comes from unexpected moment sometimes.

When I reached the peak, many people were making their memories in their own way. To be frank with you, I was a little disappointed when I saw the peak. It looked like a small football ground slightly hollowed land as if the spaceship touched down there. It was unusual for the top edge to be as sharp as the end of the crown. I came up with my mind for a while that I wanted to run down to that wide ground. This peak was an island at first. As times go by the sands and gravels were flown from the neighboring seashore into this islet and it had resulted in the connection to the main land of Jeju Island exquisitely. As I descended from the summit, it seemed that the narrow and slender beach on the far left of this peak is evident of its' formation. The descending wooden stairs made a harmony with the greens and I had to wait because the pure and marvelous nature were providing the fantastic shooting points to visitors.

FACTS: This is the typical soft tuff cone in the world and provides important formula text about the eruptive and depositional process of hydro-magmatic volcanoes. It said, this was made by the hydro-magmatic eruption of volcano under shallow sea bed, just under the sea about 120 meters in depth, five thousand years before presumably. This peak has vertical cliffs showing diverse inner structures in three sides except west side of it formed by erosive action of the strong winds and waves since ever made. In 2007, Jeju Volcanic Island and Lava Tubes became the first site selected for its natural significance by UNESCO. It ranked top 7 in the world superb natural landscape in 2011.

TIPS: The best time to visit Jeju Is. is in the spring or in the fall. Jeju Island has lots of tourist attractions to see and feel. Segmenting it into east, west, south, middle and neighbouring islands is also one of the ways to save your time.

Walking in the moonlight at Suwon Hwaseong(수원화성 달빛동행) in Suwon, South Korea

I’ve been waited the romantic spring walking in the moonlight along the fortress in Suwon for last few weeks.

Banghwasuryujeong

The night was so mild enough to feel the flavor of spring night. It was the first time for me to join at this kind of special program. I stuck to the computer on the on-line application time and got a fortune to join this lovely moonlight date with family.

This program operates by the Suwon Cultural Foundation on the around 15^th (Full moon day on lunar calendar) day of from May to October annually. It started from the entrance gate of Hwaseong Hanenggung temporary palace(화성행궁) and looked around inside of it, rode the Hwaseong Trolley to the Janganmun gate(North gate of fortress), walked along the fortress and backed to the palace again to see the Traditional performance inside the palace. The whole course takes around two hours.

Visitors were hanging the Korean traditional lantern offered by this program

We received the Korean traditional Lantern (Cheonsachorong) for lightening up the road along the fortress and palace at the Sinpungnu(the main gate of palace, starting point). Thanks to this generous and curious commentator, we got very useful and detail explanation all the two hours round. He was just fit to manage in this program and very interesting man. He was eager to give a full explanation to us. I lost my heart totally in this fascinating place and was hard not to admire at the gorgeous views of the palace.

Palace and the Full Moon in the sky

On the way to the riding Hwaseong Trolley on the back hill side in this palace, there was a surprising performance which a lady singer and a man playing the Korea traditional pipe played for us. What the soft elegant sound at the calm and dark night  it was!!! It was beyond description.

Performance for elegant Korean traditional music

Hwaseong Trolley
It was difficult for me to take a picture due to on boarding of the running trolley. However I admired at the Suwon citizen to listen the explanation of commentator that Suwon citizens have endure many inconveniences and sacrifices to maintain good condition of this heritage because many citizen actually live in and out area of it. I felt the best part of this one must be the walking along the wall between The Janganmun gate(장안문;north gate) and The Banghwasuryujeong(방화수류정 ;command post, national treasure). It was time travel to the past. And it did not end just there.

The Jangmun gate(north gate)

Citizens are strolling at night along the fortress

Hwahongmun stone bridge

The performances waited us inside the palace.

I didn’t know the reason why I felt very hard going sad feeling as when I saw the dancing show performed by this man. After hearing the explanation of MC, I understood what it was exactly and admired his wonderful performance again. As I heard, he expressed the frailty of human life as a man-about-town. It was precious affection which would like to feel again with my family. Ah ! I didn't want to leave the palace ,,,…It was really impressive and charming night.

The Sinpungnu( the main gate of palace)

 I wrote about this Fortress and palace at the previous post of mine.
 Refer it please at here>>http://goo.gl/r7OQGz...........   http://goo.gl/EMocei
Tip You shouldn’t be too disappoint at not to joining this program. They open the palace at night from Jun to September. The fortress is going to light up from 8PM to 10PM during this period. 

 

The Love Point of Suwon Hwaseong Fortress, Palace and The Suwon city(수원 화성)

When I visited there on Saturday late morning around 10;30AM, it was crowded already by the many people who enjoy the weekend. I got a position under the trees in front of the Sinpungnu(신풍루, the main gate of the palace) and watched the 24 Martial Arts Trial Performance which is constituted of excellent 24 techniques of Joseon Dynasty(last dynasty of Korea established in 1392).

The commentator wearing the Hanok(Korean traditional clothes)

They used to do practice all the year round according to the commentator’s explanation. On a hot day, they did perform while wearing thick traditional military uniform as dripping with sweat. It was the time for them that was needed thunderous applause. It might be surely successful event for King Jeongjo who made this palace to see that many people are happy under the three zelkova trees planted by himself and at the just site where he distributed the rice porridge for the poor. Trees were giving the shade and mild winds of them for the visitors as if they welcomed the clouds. Many various regular or irregular performances such as Jangyongyeong Royal Guard Ceremony, King’s parade accompanying by his mother, Saturday Regular performance and Summer night music concert (July-August) are given in this front yard of the palace. What the amazing thing is plenty of performances were played by the citizens of Suwon city(수원시).

King's parade accompanying  by his mother

The mother of King Jeongjo( rolling by volunteer citizen) on the parade

The old Korean traditional clothes. Visitors are able to wear and take photos inside the palace

King's chair ; The photo zone next to above dress wear corner in the palace

The photo zone of Daejannggeum(Jewel in the palace) in the palace
This palace was often used for filming site of historical TV dramas such as DaeJangGeum(Jewel in the Palace), The Moon Embracing the Sun and so on. Also other experimental activities are prepared for the people inside the fortress.

Among the event of all, the most delightful one must be the Suwon Hwaseong Cultural Festival celebrating every October. What’s more surprise, many parts of these schedules have been operated by the volunteers of Sunwon citizens.

The Tongdak street(통닭거리 ; the fried chicken street)
Do you happen to hear the word ‘cheemaek'(치맥) ? It is the combination word of chicken and beer. Koreans love to drink beer with Korean style fried chicken. There was big fried chicken food street at the back side of Yeomingak (Korean belfry), after crossing the street from the Haenggung(this temporary palace) square and walked down toward the direction of Suwon Hwaseong Museum.

The Yeomingak(Korean belfry)

I put on the waiting list and await around 20 minutes because many people waited on line already. I loved the plentiful amount and low price of it. I was full by the crispy fried chicken and seasoning one on the half-half base of one chicken. I highly recommend to stop by this delicious zone. You won’t be disappointed, never. Samsung corp. Almost everyone in the world knows the mobile phone of Samsung Electronics co., Headquarter of it is in Suwon. And related some Samsung group companies are also in here. And thus, this city got remarkable growth in company with these companies since a couple of decades. I thought that the King might dream this kind of imagination of vibrant business world. His dream is still keep on going.

At the front yard of palace

Along the fortress

At the Banghwasuryujeong

There are some restrictions near the fortress since it had been designated in UNESCO World Heritage site. For example, Here is not permitted to build the gas station near the wall for fresh air. I think it is very beautiful thing that Suwon citizen make efforts and protect great relics despite of inconvenience.I can’t help loving this city like them,too. I had been the program of ‘Walking in the moonlight at Suwon Hwaseong Haenggung’. It will be another romantic experience at night to me to the past. I look forward it very much. I’ll post about it soon.

Why don’t you see my previous blog about Hwaseong fortress and Suwon hwaseong Haenggung? >>......http://goo.gl/r7OQGz............  http://goo.gl/wYVYmI

Tip ; You need three hours at least to take a walk around just the fortress. It means the more times should be taken to see the palace also. Don’t hurry. Take your time slowly in here, please!!!. And prepare some drinks, wear comfortable shoes and something to shield the strong sunshine in case of hot day. Check the performance schedules carefully through their web site because they have various regular/irregular program for visitors.